The part # of the 30A breaker is : W58XC4C12A30 and it will be at the bottom of the page.They have a toll free number and you can order them direct. A generator with the rating you and I have is quite capable of running full tilt without a problem as long as you stay within the 30A output.
I finally found them on an aircraft parts website....these are the type of breakers used on almost all small aircraft...... Type in the website search window: Potter-Brumfield.
Click on the Potter-Brumfield highlighted word and it will list all the breakers they have.
It is so much easier to set up all your configurations with a panel. I just brought my whole board to them plugs,breakers and all so they could see it. BUT, I found that most of the work I was getting it was just overkill. Take a voltmeter, set it to AC output, and check the output by placing the probes on one BLACK and one WHITE....should read 110VAC. probe to the other BLACK wire and it should also read 110VAC.
BTW, I do suggest putting a voltmeter on it to monitor your voltage output and fluctuation. He told me it doesnt matter which side gets or - on 220v. I will go to that website later and order some breakers. I ended up using it as a generator more than a welder. Ok, a couple more items for thought and elimination of future headaches.(1) Is your generator brushless or have brushes. If not, keep up to date on brush wear.(2) Yes, all 220VAC circuits are simply (2) 110VAC input legs with a neutral/ground leg. Usually, the manufacturers will wire one of the BLACK wires to one side of the 220 recept, and a jumper from the same 220 lug to one of the 110 outlets.
If you need any other suggestion, just let me know...... It worked great for hooking up my Lincoln Powermig 200 to it,or running my little Hobart 135 for doing gasless fcaw on galvanized fences etc. But really,since this isnt my "primary" job, I really get along fine with the new inverter stuf. I also have a Miller ac/dc tig welder(squarewave 180) that I have at home along with the big ol' Lincoln Mig. On a (3)wire system, electricians will wire, BLACK=110 HOT... Then the other BLACK will go to the 2nd hot terminal of the 220 recept. This way, each 110 outlet will have a separate breaker so each 110 outlet can use the full output.
I am acually thinking about getting the HTP MTS 160,which is a combo Mig/Tig/Stick machine. If the 110 outlets are strapped together, you only need to run one BLACK and one WHITE to this recept..
Meaning that the worst that will happen when doing this, is that you will trip the circuit breaker on the generator and will have to wait for the circuit to cool down before resuming your welding task. Or will I need to change the recepticle on the generator? Look at the photo of my generator....click on the photo to enlarge it. will put out 6750W and can handle (2) individual 30A circuits.
Ok..left to right the circuits are: Double 110VAC receptacle, 220VAC Twist-Lock 3 prong receptacle, White 30A push-button breaker for the 110VAC outlets, White 30A push-button breaker for all the 220VAC outlets(3), Voltmeter, 220VAC angle-prong receptacle, 220VAC straight-prong receptacle. only accessories receptacles on the generator when I bought it were the 110 recept., 220VAC 4 prong recept. The hard part I had was trying to find those damn button breakers.
I want to run my 220v inverter type welders from this. Hello Molten Metal, there was a thread in which they discussed the specific identification of each of the four poles in this outlet, I believe that two of these terminals are the hot legs in the circuit and are each good for 110v seperately.
They are rarely ever over 120amps when I am welding and my generator has a 6200 watt surge. When they are used in tandem they provide the 220V output, the other two terminals provide a neutral leg and a ground.
I bought my 220VAC (both) receptacles at Lowes as they were the most reasonable in price. If I know the unit is going to sit idle and not run for any extended period, I add STA-BIL to the fuel. I will run both generators at least once every 2 weeks for 15 min....keeps the carbs clean. Although the electrical guy did say to just run a green wire off the new 220v recepticle to the frame just to be sure.